Friday, February 25, 2011

Mi Casa es Su Casa


We are comfortably settled in our new place located in the barrio of Ñuñoa. I was entirely wrong in my original desires to get a place of our own and I’m so glad we didn’t. We have three awesome roommates from France. It’s great to make new friends (esp. from other countries), to practice the language, to hear other peoples stories and to get recommendations for restaurants, weekend trips or simply places to buy a bike.
Our location is both great and not so great. We’re only a few blocks from the metro so that makes it easy to get around- (as long as it’s not rush hour). But the one main drawback is the location right along the main street. It gets semi-quiet from about 2:00a.m. to 6:00a.m. We are quickly trying to adjust our sleeping habits to tune out the sounds of the street but it’s not all that easy. I think we’ll each own a pair of ear plugs by the end of the week.
The view from our pequeno balcony.


Our living room.



Dining Room.



Our cocina.


But aside from that, we love the apartment. There’s a good amount of room to hang out in our room, the living room, dining room and on the roof. And it’s an older building with lots of great character - wavy glass windows, high ceilings, stained glass, old doors and the like. No garden or grapevine laden trellis like at our Chilean madre’s house.. but there are a few cacti on the roof adding a little appeal.


The rooftop terrace at dusk. Our new favorite place to enjoy beers and chilean wine.
I was also so excited to move into an apartment so I could bake some homemade cookies! (which I’ve been craving for over 2 weeks now) So I overcame the first challenge of finding chocolate chips- a feat that was much more difficult than one might imagine. Well last night Henry and I baked some chicken for dinner and I was on oven pre-heating duty, but I couldn’t entirely understand the dial… I called in Pierre- one of our roommates and I asked (in Spanish of course) ‘So where are the degrees on this thing? How do I know how hot it is?’ Pierre responded ‘Oh there are no exact degrees- these little symbols are approximations of most hot to least hot.”He looked at me to verify that I understood his broken Spanish and I just laughed – not at him of course but at the ridiculousness of our oven. Turns out the little symbols are pictures of a flame at different sizes indicating the amount of heat you get inside the oven. Pierre suggested to not go by the little pictures on the dial but to guess the the amount of heat by the actual size of the flames in the bottom of the oven.
You have got to be kidding me! How’s a girl supposed to bake in an oven of approximated degrees?!?! Nevertheless.. the chicken turned out great.. but I am hesitant to mix up a batch of cookie dough only to have each dozen burn in our approximation oven.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

“Yo perdi mis calcetines.” I lost my socks.


(Jenn and I on the top of Cerro San Cristobal; that day we took the trolley up)

While running Cerro San Cristobal last weekend I discovered that language doesn’t come from the heart but from the stomach.
From where I live now the run is 9-miles door to door with 1,472 feet of climbing. By the time you reach the top you are so thirsty you can barely enjoy the absolutely stunning view of Santiago. Generally I wouldn’t complain, but this hill enacts a kind of cruel and unusual punishment that hardly seems legal. The 2.5-mile incline and 90° heat doesn’t really bother me, but the Gatorade stations placed periodically up the hill seem to laugh at the runner who doesn’t want to carry change on a 9-mile run. I swear the thirst is 90% mental 10% physical.
After the first two treks I finally gave in and decided to take 1,000 pesos to reward myself with an ice-cold Gatorade at the summit. Unbeknownst to me I was also paying for a Spanish lesson. After paying I immediately gulped down the liquid candy bar and headed back down. It took about 2 minutes before I realized I made a huge mistake. I should have brought 1150 pesos not 1000. The ice-cold deliciousness shocked my stomach into action and I quickly learned that the Chilean entrepreneurial spirit charges 150 pesos per squat—30 cents. And oh the irony, the bathrooms are just as numerous as the Gatorade stands on the way down. I wanted to yell, “Stop laughing at me bathroom! Just wait till I come back with 30 cents after a night of drinking and completos! We’ll see who is laughing then.”
I walked about a mile before I admitted to myself I wasn’t going to make the 3 miles back. Now, normally I wouldn’t feel comfortable asking strangers for money in English, but there is nothing like stomach thunder to make you start begging in a foreign language. I went up to few pololos (couples) lounging on the grassy hill and asked in my most polite Spanish if I could “borrow” 150 pesos for the bano. Unfortunately none had spare change and I approaching time zero.
Finally, I marched/waddled up to the bathroom guard and explained my predicament. She said it was fine and let me pass. My momentary relief soon faded as I discovered that my Spanish isn’t all that good. Somewhere I had lost in the translation that the 150 pesos came with the toilet paper, which she apparently couldn’t part with.
Now I’ll approach the next part sensitively. When I was telling this story in my Spanish class Monday morning my teacher’s eyes kept getting wider and wider as I searched for the words to describe my Sunday afternoon jog. When I got to this part I simply said “Yo perdi mis calcetines.” I lost my socks. 

(Mary at the top)

Friday, February 18, 2011

Vino at the Viña




Last week we took a trip to the southeast part of Santiago to the vineyards and winery of Cousino-Macul. Originally it was built a distance from the city closer to the foothills of the Andes but since its formation, the city of Santiago has expanded to surround the winery. It was established in 1856 by Matias Cousino, a successful entrepreneur who had developed one of the richest silver mines in the north of Chile and later on constructed Chile’s first copper smelting plant. Along with extending railroads to the south and to the coast to export his products he also started Cousino-Macul Winery. Matias passed away during the establishment of the winery and left the task to his son, Luis Cousino.



Luis traveled to France in 1860 to purchase original grapevine rootstock from wineries all over France for Cab Sav, Merlot, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It was only three years later that the Phylloxera, and aphid like insect, was accidentally released by English Botanists into Europe. The epidemic killed off rootstock in wineries all across Europe and primarily in France.

Because of its geographical location, Chile’s wine region has been extremely protected from plagues, insects and epidemics from the outside world for years. It is secured by the dry Atacama Desert in the north, the Andes mountain range to the east, the narrow Strait of Magellan and Antarctica to the South and the Pacific Ocean to the west. This has allowed Cousino-Macul to become home to some of the oldest grapevine rootstock in the world.




Each of these barrels back in the caves has a large cork to hold in the pressure throughout the fermentation process. If there is a strong enough earthquake, some of the corks can wiggle loose and numerous barrels of wine can be ruined.


Deliciousness.







Thursday, February 17, 2011

Goat cheese, wild horses and one hell of a view

Posted to the bulletin board at school we signed up for a semi-mystery trip to Termas del Plomo, for our first Saturday in Chile. It was a semi-mystery in that we could only understand bits and pieces of the Spanish flier and we had only caught fragments of our guide, Jorge’s speedy spanish sputter of an explanation of the trip but we thought from what we understood it would be a strenuous hike in the Andes to some incredible views at the top. We’re in! We were told it was about a 2 hour and 45 minute drive to the east and that we could bring our swimsuits because there was a place to swim at “las pies de la montanas” (the feet of the mountains.) either before or after the hike.
Just an hour and half out, after a quick stop in the small town of San Jose, the road ahead turned into gravel and our van was engulfed in a swirl of dust. The windows on the van were open and swallowed in brown clouds each time another vehicle passed by. It was only 10:00a.m., we hadn’t been anywhere close to hiking yet and I had already felt like Pig Pen from Peanuts.  An hour further into the journey we abruptly pulled off an even bumpier side road up to a grouping of three small shacks. Everyone piled out of the van and we immediately filled our lungs with fresh,  smog free air of the mountains as we tried to comprehend the vastness of the views – as well as the immediate site in front of us.

We had arrive at the home of some of Jorge’s friends in the dry rocky terrain of the mountains watched over by their menagerie of dogs, cats, chickens, ducks, and goats. Jorge wandered inside the ‘abode’ while we tourists snaped away photos of the scenery and animals. He returned with a large plate of fresh made goat cheese- Wow! How cool right? Well the notion was more idyllic than the taste. The look on Henry’s face after his first bite was “I’m afraid for my stomach.” Nevertheless we tried it – I think it may have been a tad more enjoyable if it were not in the baking sun, and maybe if it were a little cooler than just below room temperature. So the dogs and puppies quickly became our friends as they finished off our samples.


We piled back into the van and off we went down the road. We stopped yet once more before our final destination at an artificial dammed lake for more touristy shots looking out over the bright blue water.

An hour or so further along in our journey we finally arrived at Termas Del Plomo in Parque Valle del Yeso.  This was not only the headway to the main hiking trail but also a vacation destination for some Chileans. Small waterfalls and streams trickle down the mountains and create swimming holes amongst the rocks. The thought of a quick dip after the hike seemed like a nice idea at first but it was a tad crowded when we finished and not quite as warm out in the mountains as it was back in Santiago.




We commenced the hike and within the first five minutes our heads were pounding from altitude headaches. Though we had no advil the immense views distracted us nicely from the pain which quickly dispersed. Cows wandered the mountainsides and graze all summer long. Once fall arrives the owners will venture out for five to six days to gather up their cattle and return them to their farms.

I couldn't begin to explain how they manage to gather up a whole herd or how someone gets their cow down from there.



 Can you see the tiny cows on the ridge??

El Lago del Pato

It was a tad windy.


Every time I put my camera away in my bag or turned it off I had to take it back out yet again to snap shots of the views, Henry, the vegetation and the utter vastness of the landscape. At the highest point of our hike we stopped to eat our lunch at El Lago del Pato (which translates to duck lake given the name for its shape- that of a duck.. and coincidentally some ducks live there.) After lunch our hike looped back around the backside of one of the steep mountain sides where we encountered a herd of wild horses who stopped abruptly in their tracks upon seeing us. They then galloped down the mountain to graze at the bottom where they wouldn't be bothered.









Heres a map of the days hike as documented by Henry's GPS watch.

Overall we only ended up hiking about 3 miles.. and rode in the van for a total of approximately 8 hours... so it was a little less hiking and a little more driving than we had imagined but I'd say for our first Andes hiking expedition we got to see quite the incredible landscape.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Our new addiction: The Chilean Completo



The perfect meal after a few beers at the bar – just a little  something to satisfy your belly for the walk home. It is a vienesa (hot dog) on a toasted bun topped with a minimum of ¼ cup of diced tomatoes, huge dollops of palta (avocado) slathered on with what resembles a masonry trowel, and abundant squirts of mayonnaise. No Chilean sandwich is complete without mayonnaise- and a lot of it.  This is the most popular completo with these three key ingredients giving it the name The Italiano- the colors of the toppings resemble those of the Italian flag hence the name Italiano.

They have multiple other topping combinations or you can create your own. Some of the toppings include black olives, cheese, sauerkraut, bacon, salsa verde, eggs, lettuce, peppers and much more. Domino is a restaurant here in Chile famous for their completos and they have over 16 different types from the Italiano, Irlandesa, Gringa, Brasilena, Rodeo, Suiza and many more. So if you are planning to come down and visit us... take a look at the menu now so you can have some time to decide which of the 16 completos you might want when you arrive - and come hungry!


Henry and Austin, our friend from school, ready to dive into the incredible completo experience. 

Sunday, February 6, 2011

1210 Alberto Decombe


This is where we have been living for the past week and will be living for the next two. We are about a 20 minute walk from school and the nearest metro stop, located in the barrio (neighborhood) of Providencia. When we return home from school and our mini tours everyday we are greeted by Pepa, the little Beagle who lives here. The hospitality, food and views from our window are incredible.  It’s impossible to complain. We’re trying to soak up all of the details and character while we can because once we move into an apartment, it probably won’t have quite the same charm.




Henry and Pepa doing homework.





The view from our window over looking the grape vine covered pergola.
(Sorry for the poor lighting in some of the images- still learning the ins and outs of our new little digital camera)

Friday, February 4, 2011

Why Chile? A Drunkard's Walk


Brothers, sisters, friends, comrades by the time you read this Jenn and I will have already flown to summer. Perhaps there is no better time than now to take a stab at the question that, over the past few months, has rented more space in my ears than the sweet nothings of a newlywed. Why Chile?
I could sit here and rattle off the depressingly obvious clichés about wanting to take the road less traveled, fulfill a sense of adventure, or broaden my horizons. If these fail to satisfy, an esoteric appeal to our Pleistocene heritage might suffice. We are, after all, a migratory species. We roamed the earth as hunter gathers for over 90% our species’ history. It would be surprising if we didn’t posses some kind of innate desire for travel—maybe even a traveling gene. Still not convinced? Me neither.
I could manufacture justifications about how learning Spanish will help Jenn and I in the future. Equally, my tongue could lay down a barrage of more meaningful reasons such as exploring the world of autism in a developing country or finding and meeting Jenn’s Chilean side of the family. I am sure many of you, at one time or another, have heard a variety of these justifications. Each are at least partly true and have at different times helped me tack through the waters of social pleasantries, but realistically I am unable to perform the mental gymnastics to convince myself that any one of them is a truly honest answer. And I don’t think I’m fooling anyone else either. 
If I could muster the nerve I’d rather respond that I don’t particularly want an answer. Not that I just don’t have one, but I don’t want one. Of course this response never scores conversational points in the annals of small talk. We are pattern-seeking primates that crave causal explanations for each and every event. This desire often leads us to impose patterns even where none exist—i.e. the Rorschach test. Nevertheless, we are constantly pushed and prodded by ourselves and others to justify our actions. Why landscape architecture? Why autism design? Why Ohio? Why Chile? Why anything? Without reasons and elaborate stories our actions somehow seem less intriguing, less meaningful.
Yet, life more likely resembles a drunkard’s walk than a sober calculated march toward an inevitable outcome. In this way, we go through life like a molecule stumbling around a glass of water. We zig this way and zag that way as we randomly collide with our chaotically moving sister H2O molecules. And although a molecule’s wandering is aimless, the molecule eventually makes progress in one direction. In hindsight, calculating its path is accurate, but predicting its course before the first jostle is only probabilistic. The term for this random motion is known in mathematics, for obvious reasons, as the drunkard’s walk, and is brilliantly used as a metaphor for life in a book I recently read. Each time we belly up to a new day we are served several pints of randomness and chance that can lead to significant life changing experiences. Looking back our current stations make perfect sense, but the closer we look the more random chance encounters we see and the less probable and more miraculous it seems that our lives have turned out the way they have.
 Take for example the long arc from my childhood friendship with Jay T. to my work in autism design. From the outside my trajectory appears almost inescapable, but any barfly who knew me before I got interested in autism design would struggle to see the connection or its inevitability. First, Jay T.’s autism could have manifested itself without tactile or auditory issues. If that were the case I would never have initially tied autism to design. Secondly, my matriculation to Virginia Tech was far from a sure thing. Originally, I was on my way to the University of Arizona until a little indecision combined with the National Guard forgetting to transfer paperwork shelved that wildcat plan. In hindsight this stubble proved to be rather fortuitous because U of A did not have an undergraduate landscape architecture program and I had only chosen landscape architecture because of a random and fleeting interest in pool design. If that had not been an option I highly doubt I would have applied to any other design major.
What’s more, I floundered for around three years in landscape architecture before I made the connection between autism and design. And, even then I never dreamt the investigation going any further than a senior project. That was until I, for no apparent reason, decided to open a university scholarship spam mail. Normally, I would mark such correspondence for deportation to the nether regions of the email trash bin, but that day I clicked to uncover a call for undergraduate research papers. Without a concern for proofreading I sent along a paper I had recently finished on outdoor environments for individuals with autism. For whatever reason the review panel failed to recognize that the title of the paper was misspelled and the paper was accepted as one of four to represent Tech at the ACC Undergraduate Research Conference. I could go on about how all of this led me to Denmark, Hill Studio, writing a book and Bittersweet Farms in Ohio, but teasing out anymore happenstance moments would be rather tiresome and beyond the point.
Anywhere along this journey I could have easily stumbled down another Frostian path where way would have led on to way leaving me unable to return to the roads kept for another day. With that in mind, Jenn and I stagger into Chile without a comfortable explanation, but not particularly wanting one. We don’t know if we will find jobs, how long we will be here, or what impact it will have on the rest of our lives. All I can say is that if life is a drunkard’s walk the stumble home from the bar is best made with the friends you love. So here I am with Jenn drinking in life and hoping many of you will join/follow our bar crawl home.


Leonard Mlodinow The Drunkard’s Walk: How Randomness Rules Our Life